Regimen Lab Skincare Encyclopedia ?

Ceramides

*Preliminary Lab Notes* - Full Entry Under Development

Ingredient Profile

Common Name: Ceramides
INCI: Ceramides
Source: Sweet Potato, Wheat, Brown Rice
Ceramide Molecule

kligman ingredient evaluation

Penetration: Under analysis
Biochemical Mechanism: Under analysis
Level of Evidence: Under analysis

Regimen's Take

Ceramides are among our favourite ingredients as they do wonders for dry skin. However, formulating them properly is a challenge as adding them to a formulation without Cholesterol and Fatty acids can damage the Moisture Barrier. They also need to be in a proper 3:1:1:1 ratio to get the maximum benefit from them. Most Ceramide creams in the market have questionable amount of Ceramides in them; usually at 0.025%. You also have to make sure that the pH of the product is around 4.7-5.5 because they need to be processed at that pH. Contrary to what most say, topically applied Ceramides do not directly form a seal in your lamellar layers. They fully penetrate to the Stratum Granulosum first, then gets processed by the Lamellar Body Processing system. This means that they take a while to work, but it is a far superiour method of Barrier Repair compared to the band-aid solution with Petrolatum.

TLDR

  • Ceramide 1 is responsible for the proper structure of the lamellar layer
  • Ceramide 3 works synergistically with Ceramide 1 to form a proper structure
  • Ceramides promote an Orthorhombic packing (Super tight semi-hexagonal arrangement) 
  • They also play a role in preventing an overexaggerated inflammatory response
Coming soon
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The Skincare Encyclopedia aims to improve public understanding of the biology and chemistry of skincare. The Encyclopedia is rooted in core scientific principles and extensive research, in many cases in collaboration with the authors of the original studies referenced. This is a project of Regimen Lab, maintained by a group of multidisciplinary scientists, MDs, and researchers.