|Common Name: Ceramides|
|Source: Sweet Potato, Wheat, Brown Rice|
kligman ingredient evaluation
|Penetration: Under analysis|
|Biochemical Mechanism: Under analysis|
|Level of Evidence: Under analysis|
Ceramides are among our favourite ingredients as they do wonders for dry skin. However, formulating them properly is a challenge as adding them to a formulation without Cholesterol and Fatty acids can damage the Moisture Barrier. They also need to be in a proper 3:1:1:1 ratio to get the maximum benefit from them. Most Ceramide creams in the market have questionable amount of Ceramides in them; usually at 0.025%. You also have to make sure that the pH of the product is around 4.7-5.5 because they need to be processed at that pH. Contrary to what most say, topically applied Ceramides do not directly form a seal in your lamellar layers. They need to fully penetrate to the Stratum Granulosum first, then be processed by the Lamellar Body Processing system. This means that they take a while to work, but it is a far superior method of Barrier Repair compared to the band-aid solution with Petrolatum alone. However, if Petrolatum is combined with Ceramides, barrier repair increases to 95%.
- Ceramide 1 is responsible for the proper structure of the lamellar layer
- Ceramide 3 works synergistically with Ceramide 1 to form a proper structure
- Ceramides promote an Orthorhombic packing (Super tight semi-hexagonal arrangement)
- They also play a role in preventing an overexaggerated inflammatory response
The full Regimen Lab Skincare Encyclopedia Entry for Ceramides is in development. Check back in a few weeks for an update!