|Common Name: Squalane|
|Source: Synthesized through Biotechnology|
kligman ingredient evaluation
|Penetration: Under analysis|
|Biochemical Mechanism: Under analysis|
|Level of Evidence: Under analysis|
Squalane is a lipid that acts both an antioxidant and a moisture retainer. It's related to but not to be confused with squalene, which is produced by the body, and comprises about 13% of your skin's oils (sebum)) and protects the body from lipid peroxidation due to UV exposure, maintains moisture, and acts as an antioxidant by quenching free radicals. In skincare, squalane is its more stable counterpart, used primarily as an emollient to smooth skin and prevent moisture loss. It's a high quality emollient because of its biocompatibility, which has been well-studied and shown to be noncomedogenic, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. (when butter gets rancid, that is -- function of squalEne is to prevent those oils from being lipid peroxidized.
Look for squalene as the top emollient in your moisturizer. If your moisturizer contains squalane, it must be at 5-10% of the formula to properly reduce TEWL. Watch out! Squalane is a common 'sneaky label' ingredient, where manufacturers list it prominently on the front but sneak it in the ingredient list in low, ineffective concentrations to save cost. two lipids: physiological and non-physiological lipids What's the difference? the physiological lipids (cera, chol, fatty) have a 'lag time' - takes time to work because it works from the inside but you also need something that has an immediate effect to reduce water loss, this is where non-physio lipids come in.